Where Ratatouille Comes From
Ratatouille comes from Provence, in the south of France, and is especially associated with Nice. It began as a simple, thrifty peasant dish for using up the abundant summer vegetables of the Mediterranean: aubergines, courgettes, peppers and tomatoes, all cooked slowly in olive oil with garlic and herbs. The name is related to the French verb touiller, meaning to stir or toss.
There are two schools of thought on how to make it. Some cooks put everything in one pot and let it stew. Others, including many cooks in Provence, insist on frying each vegetable separately before combining them, so each keeps its own texture and flavour. This recipe takes the second approach. It takes a little more time, but the result is noticeably better: sweet, concentrated and silky, rather than watery.
Serves: 4–6 | Prep: 25 minutes | Cook: 1 hour 15 minutes
Ingredients
- 100 ml (scant ½ cup) extra virgin olive oil, divided
- 2 medium aubergines (eggplants), about 600 g (1.3 lb), cut into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
- 3 courgettes (zucchini), about 500 g (1.1 lb), cut into 2 cm (¾ in) pieces
- 2 red or yellow peppers, cut into 2 cm (¾ in) squares
- 2 onions, chopped
- 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 700 g (1.5 lb) ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 1 × 400 g (14 oz) can chopped tomatoes plus 2 fresh tomatoes
- 1 tsp herbes de Provence, or a few sprigs of fresh thyme and 1 bay leaf
- 1 tsp sugar (optional, if tomatoes are acidic)
- A handful of fresh basil leaves
- Salt and black pepper
Method
- Sprinkle the aubergine cubes with a little salt and leave them in a colander for 20 minutes. Pat them dry with kitchen paper.
- Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Fry the aubergine for 8–10 minutes until golden and soft, then transfer it to a bowl.
- Add a little more oil and fry the courgettes for 5–6 minutes until lightly browned. Add them to the bowl.
- Fry the peppers in another spoonful of oil for 6–8 minutes until soft and slightly charred at the edges. Add them to the bowl.
- In a large, heavy pot, heat the remaining oil and cook the onions gently for 10 minutes until soft and golden. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more.
- Add the tomatoes, herbs and sugar if using. Simmer for 10–15 minutes until the tomatoes collapse into a thick sauce.
- Stir in the fried vegetables, season with salt and pepper, and simmer very gently, partly covered, for 30–40 minutes, stirring now and then. The vegetables should be very soft but still hold their shape.
- Remove the bay leaf or thyme stems, tear in the basil and drizzle with a little more olive oil before serving.
Tips for Success
- Use the ripest, most flavourful summer vegetables you can find. Ratatouille is best in late summer, when they are at their peak.
- Aubergine absorbs a lot of oil. Salting it first and frying in a hot pan helps it brown rather than soak up oil.
- Ratatouille improves with time. Make it a day ahead, cool and refrigerate it, then reheat gently or serve it at room temperature.
- Cut the vegetables to a similar size so they cook evenly.
Variations
The thinly sliced, layered version known as confit byaldi, popularised by chef Michel Guérard and later by an animated film, makes an impressive presentation. Arrange alternating slices of aubergine, courgette and tomato in a spiral over a pepper and tomato sauce, then bake slowly.
A spoonful of tapenade or a few black olives stirred in at the end adds a salty, Provençal flavour.
How to Serve
Ratatouille is wonderfully versatile. Serve it as a side with roast chicken, lamb or grilled fish, or make it the main course with crusty bread, rice, polenta or pasta. It is also excellent topped with a fried or poached egg for brunch, or spooned onto toasted bread with goat's cheese.
Serve it hot, warm or at room temperature. In Provence, leftovers are often eaten cold the next day.
Ratatouille also freezes well for up to three months. Freeze it in portions so you can enjoy a taste of summer later in the year.
