Where Butter Chicken Comes From
Butter chicken, known in Hindi as murgh makhani, is one of the best-known Indian dishes worldwide. It is closely associated with Delhi and with Moti Mahal, a restaurant founded by Punjabi cooks who moved to the city after Partition in 1947. The restaurant is generally credited with popularising tandoori chicken, and with creating a rich tomato and butter sauce in which leftover tandoori chicken could be simmered so it would not dry out. The exact credit is still debated between families linked to the restaurant.
The dish works in two stages. First, chicken is marinated in yoghurt and spices and cooked over high heat until charred. Then it is simmered in a smooth makhani gravy of tomatoes, butter, cream and spices, finished with kasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves). The result is mild, creamy and slightly sweet, with a gentle smokiness.
Serves: 4 | Prep: 25 minutes, plus 2–12 hours marinating | Cook: 45 minutes
Ingredients
Chicken marinade
- 700 g (1.5 lb) boneless chicken thighs, cut into large pieces
- 150 g (⅔ cup) thick plain yoghurt
- 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1½ tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- 1 tsp garam masala, ½ tsp ground cumin, ½ tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tbsp neutral oil
Makhani gravy
- 60 g (¼ cup) butter, divided
- 1 tbsp neutral oil
- 1 onion, roughly chopped (optional, for a thicker sauce)
- 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
- 2 green cardamom pods, 3 cloves and a small piece of cinnamon
- 700 g (1.5 lb) ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 400 g (14 oz) tomato passata plus 2 fresh tomatoes
- 15 cashews, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes
- 1–2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- 1 tsp garam masala
- 1–2 tsp sugar or honey
- 120 ml (½ cup) single (light) cream
- 1 tbsp kasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves)
- Salt to taste
Method
- Mix all the marinade ingredients, add the chicken and coat well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
- Heat a grill (broiler) or oven to its highest setting. Spread the chicken on a lined tray and cook for 10–15 minutes, turning once, until charred in places and just cooked through. Alternatively, sear it in batches in a very hot cast-iron pan.
- For the gravy, heat half the butter and the oil in a pan. Add the whole spices and cook for 30 seconds, then add the onion if using and cook for 5 minutes.
- Add the ginger-garlic paste and cook for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes, drained cashews and chilli powder. Simmer for 15 minutes until the tomatoes are completely soft.
- Remove the whole spices if you can find them. Blend the sauce until very smooth, then pass it through a sieve for an extra-silky texture.
- Return the sauce to the pan with the remaining butter, the garam masala and sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes, adding a splash of water if it is too thick.
- Add the chicken and simmer for 5–8 minutes so it absorbs the flavour.
- Crush the kasuri methi between your palms and stir it in with the cream. Taste for salt and sweetness, warm through without boiling and serve.
Tips for Success
- Kashmiri chilli powder gives a vivid red colour with only mild heat. If you substitute ordinary chilli powder, use much less and add sweet paprika for colour.
- Charring the chicken is essential for the smoky flavour. For an extra-smoky touch, try the dhungar method: place a small steel bowl in the finished curry, add a hot piece of charcoal, pour a few drops of ghee over it, and cover for 2 minutes before removing the bowl.
- Kasuri methi is the signature aroma of butter chicken. Do not leave it out.
- The sauce should be balanced between tangy and slightly sweet. Adjust with sugar if the tomatoes are very acidic.
Variations
For paneer makhani, simply replace the chicken with cubes of paneer, lightly fried or added directly to the gravy. A vegan version can be made with tofu or chickpeas, using oil instead of butter and coconut cream instead of dairy cream.
Leftover tandoori or roast chicken can also be used, which is in keeping with the dish's origins.
How to Serve
Serve butter chicken with garlic naan, butter naan or lachha paratha to mop up the gravy, or with fragrant basmati rice or jeera rice. Thinly sliced onions with lemon and chaat masala, a cucumber raita and a green salad add freshness.
A cooling glass of salted or sweet lassi pairs well. The curry keeps for three days in the fridge and tastes even better the next day.